Jane Austen and Elenor Coade

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Jane Austen, with the Reverent and Mrs. Austen, Jane's brother and Casandra, her sister, visited Lyme Regis in 1803 and 1804. They stayed initially at a large house called 'Wings' near the Cobb harbour.

As the summer passed, the family group reduced in number. The Austens, with their household staff, moved to 'Payne House', a smaller property nearer the main town. Unfortunately Rev. Austen broke a tea pot. Richard Anning, the carpenter and father of the now famous Mary Anning, the fossil hunter, was called in to value the tea pot. His verdict was that the pot was worth 5 shillings. Rev. Austen declared the entire value of the contents of the house not worth that amount and flatly refused to pay a single penny.

Jane and Casandra were extremely hardy, it is reported, they continued daily sea bathing into October.

Lyme Regis at the time had become a Sea Spa. In the mid 1770's a Doctor Russell declared sea water to have extraordinary curative power. He said that the sea water at Lyme Regis was a very high quality. Bath, to the north of Lyme Regis, was the most popular spa town in the West Country. The season of early summer saw Bath bursting with wealthy gentry.

The people of Lyme Regis saw an opportunity to challenge Bath's popularity. The prosperity of the town had declined through the decline of the Cobb harbour as an important port. A leading local citizen, Mr. Jefford, opened Jefford's Baths on the site of the present Marine Theatre. People could bath in private in hot or cold water as the cure prescribed. The Three Cups Hotel joined the race to attract clientele, 5 bathing machines were provided on the beach. The machines were taken into the water drawn by donkeys. They were attended by fully clothed local ladies, those taking the water bathed naked.

Early in the 18th Century, Lyme was still a Tudor style town. To try to enhance the architectural style popular among the gentry of the time, many landowners re built the front elevations of their buildings to emulate the style of Bath. An assembly room was constructed at the bottom of Broad street. This attraction became a popular centre for visitors. The Austens regularly attended to play cards and dance. Jane reputedly met a young Irishman who, it seems, wooed her without great success.

In 1804, the Austens witnessed the great fire of Lyme, over 50 houses and properties were consumed in the flames.

Many people believed Jane Austen only visited Lyme Regis once in 1803. However, Casandra, her sister, visited Weymouth in 1805. She also witnessed the 1805 great fire of Weymouth and wrote to Jane telling her that she had seen a fire similar to the one they had witnessed in Lyme last year. Thus proving they had both been to Lyme in 1804.

In the mid 1700s, Elenor Coade of Lyme Regis, emerged as on of the greatest ceramic artists in the country. Their factory was in Lambeth, London, on the site of the present Festival Hall. The Coades manufactured large ceramic statues and all manor of decorative architectural features. Most of the large Coade stone vases and statues found in great houses are made to order by the emerging wealthy gentry. Elenor Coade therefore met many of those who attended the season at Bath. It is not beyond the realms of possibility she made a big contribution to the promotion of Lyme Regis as a sea spa.

The construction in 1758 of the link road from the A35 at Hunters Lodge, through Uplyme, improved the link northwards to Bath. Lyme Regis was not on a direct coaching route, the only through coach was on the weekly Topsham to London service. Coaches, however, traveled through Axminster picking up at Hunters Lodge or Morecombelake. A horse drawn bus ran daily from Lyme Regis to Bridport, this service continued till 1929.

If you visit the Austen's home at Chalton, you will find two full size dressed models of Jane and her sister Casandra. These models were researched and created by my wife, Marilyn, who is an expert in historical costumes.

Richard J. Fox MBE